A budget travellers guide to Riga – what we did that was good, bad and what was missed!
Day 1
We flew from London Stansted. Parking was booked through the Quidco app which at the time gave us generous 4% cashback. Upon arriving at the airport, we booked a taxi which was €23 via bolt. We found this rate to be competitive in comparison to the taxi rank, which did have plenty of cars lined up. As always, Bolt delivered a quick and safe cab quite quickly. Because we had an evening flight, we arrived at our Airbnb in central Riga approx. 21:30. Once the bags were dropped off, we decided to visit a few local bars before bed. We visited Bon-Vivant the Belgian Beer Café to try some tasty side dishes and a couple drinks before bed & on the way back to our apartment, we visited the Victory Pub and had a game of chess.
Day 2
We headed to ‘Big Bad Bagels’ for breakfast and had an amazing ‘Mexican Breakfast Bagel’. It was really quite tasty and worth the visit. The price was €19.60 for two packed bagels and two coffees. We also visited ‘Kilomax’ which is a second-hand clothing store, because I forgot to bring my coat! Prices for affordable and options plenty here.
Following lunch, we headed to the Freedom Monument and explored the adjacent parks. Whilst here, check out the Laima chocolate clock. The parks were beautifully maintained, even in the chilly winter months. We strolled to the powder tower and enjoyed the old medieval city, the historic Zviedru vārt and its surroundings. The Cat House (Kaku Nams) is also worth looking at on route to the Rigas Doms.
While exploring the city, we stopped by the House of the Livonian Noble Corporation, also known as Saeima House, on our way to Agenskalns. Although we couldn’t visit the parliament at the time, admiring it from the outside was still a pleasant experience. For lunch, we stumbled upon Laroka, Kafejnīca, a hidden gem frequented by locals. The food was both affordable and delicious, and it was conveniently located across from Mezeju Kratuve.
We marvelled at the beauty of the Riga Nativity of Christ Orthodox Cathedral, and don’t forget to take a look at the ‘Colourful Tree with birdhouses’ nearby. The cathedral’s interior and exterior were truly stunning. We also enjoyed some thrift shopping in the ‘Centrs’ district before treating ourselves to a meal at the BBQ restaurant called Munch, which was well worth the visit.
Day 3
Visiting the RIGA Cathedral first, we then strolled to the Riga Central Market for a late breakfast. Notably, it is Europe’s largest market and Bazaar, designated as a UNESCO site. Constructed from old German Zeppelin Hangars, it is conveniently located near the train station. The market offers a variety of fresh produce stalls, from fish to vegetables. Additionally, there is a food court serving authentic local cuisines and delicious food.
We also explored the Burzma food court following our visit from the central market, it seemed somewhat gentrified and often overpriced. Therefore, I recommend staying and dining at the central market.
Our visit to the KGB museum was both free and highly recommended. You have the option to take a jail tour for €5-15 euros, depending on your age/student status, but advance booking is required. The tours run hourly and are highly rated.
We visited the Laima chocolate factory, where you will be given lots of free chocolate. The tour takes approx. 25 minutes and you can learn about the origins of Laima, operations, products and their sourcing of beans. You will also learn about the history of the chocolate during the Soviet Union & finally you will be offered a voucher offering you a healthy discount for any chocolates that you would like to purchase afterwards!
We also walked to the the Free Ukraine wall which shows the effects of the war through art/graffiti. We also visited the various cathedrals/churches on-route & the area gives you a good feel for what living in the suburbs is like.
I then headed over to the House of the Black Heads to admire the architecture and the Museum of the Occupation of Latvia which took approx. 1 hour. This was a fantastic museum and shows the plight of the Latvians (and bravery) during Soviet & Nazi occupation.
We went to Ala Pagrabs for dinner/cocktails, this was probably on of the highlights of our trip. The food was really well priced, and the pub was so cool, we loved the underground cellar vibes. The pub’s lively atmosphere, complete with live music most evenings, added an extra layer of enjoyment to our visit. Overall, Ala Pagrabs offered a perfect blend of delicious cuisine, great prices, and exceptional cocktails, making it a must-visit destination in Riga
Day 4
We visited the Museum of Decorative Arts and Design (allow thirty minutes), worth a trip and the Three Brother’s Museum which is a quick ten minute tour & the oldest housing in Riga. We also went up the Latvian Academy of Sciences to get a roof top view of the city. It was incredible and worthwhile. You only climb the last two flights of stairs with an elevator taking you up. Make sure to take cash as at the time of writing, this was the only accepted form of payment. Our journey continued with a somber yet important visit to the Riga Ghetto and Latvian Holocaust Museum, serving as a poignant reminder of the city’s troubled past..
We then returned to the central market for some food and some more shopping. Following recommendations made by some locals, We went to Gauja for dinner. They do not take bookings, so have a backup plan in mind as seating is limited. We paid €45.70 for 2 starters, 2 mains, 2 beers & 1 dessert.
Day 5
We were required to be at the airport for approx. 3pm, so we decided to start the day by walking to the Art Novaeau district which had some of the best architecture had seen whilst on our visit. You can immerse yourself in this area and enjoy looking at all the embassies. We went to the café ‘Have you met miss Jones’ which was nice but quite expensive, €20.35 for two breakfast sandwiches and coffees. We also visited the Berlin Wall fragment whilst up at this part of the city.
Finally, before leaving we decided to fill up and go to a ‘Lido’ as per the local’s recommendations, this was a great, affordable chain restaurant which gave me Ikea food kitchen vibes. Worth visiting.
The bolt back to the airport was €10.10 and was took about 20 mins total from the central Riga area.
Riga airport
The airport is easy to get through security and does have a lot more shops, bars and cafes then I thought. It had a tap water dispenser. Prices are quite high; most sandwiches will set you back approximately $6-8. Coffee is about €5. Euro but can be brought for €2-3 euro from the Lavazza machines. Ample charging and Wi-Fi facilities with break out areas for those working on laptops etc
Thoughts and what I would do next time?
We would visit the central market more for authentic and low cost food & we believe that we could probably complete trip in 3 days. I would visit the Latvian National Museum of Art & also go to the Riga Art Nouveau Center, on a weekend (that and the Latvian art museum were shut on Mondays which caught us out).
Overall we greatly enjoyed our stay in Riga and would highly recommend it as a budget friendly, long weekend trip.
Modest Travels 
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